I took it relatively easy on the first day after leaving Sidi Ifni, to give the legs (and lungs) chance to get used to working properly again. I felt good though and it was hard stopping when I did, but the upside was that I found a nice wild campsite. For the first time on the trip a local family came out to watch me put up my tent, then invited me to move closer to their own house. If I’d felt less secure I would have done so, but I stayed put and shared the odd biscuit which paid dividends, as the next morning I was brought 3 fresh eggs. I was overwhelmed.
Back on the road and it had returned to barren landscape, the only sight occasionally breaking the monotony was the fishermen atop the cliffs, sat like gnomes. I stopped for the second night just outside Tan Tan, knowing that the next section to Tarfaya would be the bleakest yet. Over 200 km of stony hamada with very little in between. Cooking has been on the back burner (pun intended!) lately as I’d finished off the camping gaz canisters, that is until good old Tim offloaded two part used ones on me – so I made a banquet meal to sustain me the next day.
I rolled today (crawled actually) into Tarfaya absolutely shattered due to the coastal headwind, which had been with me all of the day. My first task was to find something to eat – a local pizza got the vote and I thoroughly enjoyed the best chicken pizza I’ve had in Morocco! On the way into town I’d looked for a likely camping spot, but the landscape was so bleak I decided to stay in the Casa Mar, another popular hotel for backpackers and overlanders – probably because it’s cheap and has Wifi.
Washing done and I decided it was time to switch over to petrol with the cooking stove. 10 dh filled my canister and I’ll let you know how it fares when I make my morning cup of tea! Then it’s pack up and head for Laayoune (or El-Aaiún) and the Western Sahara. It’s getting exciting and I’ve had my first couple of passport checks by the local gendarme, a sign that security is paramount to them – I have no problem with that.
And finally, here’s a little video of me leaving Sidi Ifni, courtesy of that amazing Mr Tim Cullis!